Hanging with the Homeboys in the Jewish Ghetto

Last night was a big success. If you haven't already done so, go back and read Ethan's description of our time at U Fleku-- quite possibly the best bar in all the world. (Sorry, but accordion + enthusiastic Brazilions gives Boulder's Catacombs a run for its money.) I only wish I knew more Portugese drinking songs.

I'm still adjusting to the whole 9 hour time difference, so I had some quailty alone-time with my iPod at 5AM this morning. Fortunately I'm always down for tunes and getting up early actually paid off because Ethan and I were able to beat the crowds and get down to Old Town by 9 AM.

We spent the day exploring the local history of Prague's formerly thriving and now-absent Jewish community in the Jewish Ghetto. I have never seen so many Jewish artifacts or such impressive Synagogues. Progue was the old stomping ground of Franz Kafka, Rabbi Loew, the magical Gollum, and Tom's parents and family (here I am referrring to Tom of former U Fleku fame). It was very sad but powerful to see Tom's relatives listed on a memorial at the Pinkas synagogue. I also had a lot of fun showing Ethan around an impressively thorough exhibit about 19th- and early 20th-century Jewish relgious practices housed in the Klausen Synagogue. Judaism hasn't changed much in the past few centuries, so I knew this stuff already, but it was convenient to have exhibits on everything from tfilin to mezzuzzot. They even had a moyel's kit on display. I gave Ethan a whirlwind course on Judaism 101.

We wandered past the "Gollum Cafe" and I saw the oldest Synagogue in all of europe (from the late 1200's). We also oohhed and aahhed at an immaculate Ashkenazi synagogue that seemed to sparkle with intricate tilework. I would have taken a picture, but when Tina tried the grumpy old ladies yelled at her. For a peek, Google Spanish Synagogue Prague.

Although undeniably beautiful, there was something a little eerie about today's Jewish sight-seeing . We saw half-a-dozen synagogues yet all of them were museums-- no sign of an active congregation around. Also, there were no local Jews. Everyone was a tourist. In fact, there was no sense of any local living Jewish community whatsoever.

The Nazi's had planned for Prague to be home to a giant musem dedicated to the "extinct race" of the Jews. According to a guide, many of the artifcats in Prague today are left over from the Nazi's unfinished collection. On the one hand, it was very exciting to learn all about the history of Prague's rich Jewish heritage. On the other hand, there was something a little unsettling about touring the would-be-memorial to an extinct race.

Anyway, Prague is still as beautiful as ever. Now that my Pizza is disgesting, its time to bust out of this net-cafe and get out to New Town for some gilato, and then perhaps we can drag Ethan to another "social" activity, like a bar or-- *gasp* --maybe even a club.

I hear there are photos fortchoming! Keep an eye open-- I've been working hard on my pics. Ciao for now!