Demolished at the Grand Bazaar

I like to think of myself as a savvy shopper. When I went with Stanford to the Pearl and Silk markets in Beijing I walked away with some of the best deals-- far better than my fellow classmates. So when I walked into the Grand Bazaar today to purchase two backgammon sets, I was feeling pretty confident. Apparently that confidence was misplaced.


I don't even know what happened! But somehow, I walked out with my two backgomman sets for 65 lira, or close to $50!! I probably shouldn't have even paid half that much. All I can say is these guys are good.. and perhaps a tad slimy. After considerable haggling, my stately shopkeeper appeared to agree to 55 Lira, which was a little beyond the maximum I was willing to pay. It was a littel confusing because there were two seperate boards and the chess pieces were extra and so forth and then there was the option of paying in euros dollars or lira. At the last minute, the shopkeeper changed to 65 and I didn't catch it and paid him, only seconds later realizing he had said 55! I pointed this out. He said, "Ah! YOU said 55. But I said 65!" With a friendly grin he sent me on my way.

Ughh. These guys are good.


Anyway, the backgammon boards are quite nice, and I found one for my dad that should perfectly replace the one I accidently destroyed a few years ago. And next time I go shopping at the largest Bazaar in the world amongst people who've spent the last 4 mıllenıa perfecting their bargaınıng skılls.. maybe I'll be a little more careful.

Justinian Knew How to Build Stuff
Fortunately, the Bazar was only our most recent escapade. Prior to that, Ethan and I spent the morning exploring the Blue Mosque and the Aya Sofya. The Aya Sofya is definetely the most impressive building we have seen yet from any era. It is all the more amazing that it dates back to the same time as the Pantheon. Ethan was great and gave me a full art history course connecting the hellenistic and classical Roman architecture we saw in Italy with this intermediary Byzantine architecture and then placed that squarely as a precurser to some of the Baroque architecture we saw in Prague. Basically this whole trip has been a giant Ancient Civ / Art History course come to life. Its cool. I liked the cistern as well. (See Ethan's post)

"Dear Mom and Dad: Send More Money" (20th Century BC)
Ethan was loving the Archeology museum, so we got to spend a lot of time there. Certain parts were really cool. They had a collection of ancient cunieform tablets and their translations dating from the the 19th and 20th century BC. These were mostly Hittite and Assyrian IOU's. Things haven't changed all that much. "Moshe owes Joe Shmoe 24 shekels to be paid by harvest plus interest, signed by 4 witnesses.." But some of them were especially fun. One was from an uncle or something that basically said. "Send more money right away! I have been looking after your kids as requested but we have run out of funds. Send sliver or gold or tapestries. They are getting hungy!!" There also were some codes and laws. (If you blind someone you have to pay 6 shekels, unless its a slave.. then its only 4.)

I also saw the worlds' oldest peace treaty from the 12th century BC. Egyption Pharao Ramsey the 2nd made peace with his Hittite neighbors. I approve. Peace is always a good thing.

Yummy Shish Kabobs Without the Hassle
I was most excited today to find a yummy Shish Kabob place that was very friendly and reasonably priced. We were the only foreigners in the whole establishment! Best of all, there was no annoying waiter dragging us in from the streets with a "special student discount just for you" and forcing us to sit down and look at the menu. Instead our waiuters were kind, frinedly and spoke no English. I intend to go back, if Ethan doesn't mind.


My Cousin Started a Rug Business...
I don't know what it is about this place and rugs, but for some reason two pasty disheveled white guys must look like the ideal rug purchasers. I cannot count the number of times people have accosted us on the streetwıth "Where are you from? EXCUSE ME!!! I said WHERE ARE YOU FROM?" "Oh!! California. My brother studied Economy there!" (Studying "Economy" in California seems to be very popular amongst rug salesmon.) "Let me just get you a business card. I sell beautıful rugs very cheap. Come with me!!"

I have decided that with so many people selling me rugs, I should really get ın on the action. So the next time someone accosts mein the streets I wıll ask hım where he ıs from and try to sell HIM a rug! Or maybe a nıce half-empty water bottel or hand-crafted paper aırplane or somethıng! Well just see about that!

Anyway.... thıs place ıs totally over the top. Its lıke New York but crazıer. If I get out wıthout losıng too much money I wıll be quıte content. Ta ta for now!